Friday, June 1, 2012

Bosa Filet Lace - New book!




There are not many books on Bosa Filet Lace. In fact, there is only one that I know of which is out of print and completely unfindable (if that is a word). Imagine my excitement therefore to discover this new book which is available through the publisher Petites Ondes (free shipping until the end of June) or LuLu Print-On-Demand Books.

You can download a preview of the book (text in Italian) from the Petites Ondes page, click on "Sfoglia un'antiprima" on the right side of the page under the photo of the piece of netting mounted on a frame.

Image copyright Petite Ondes and Marina Mureddu.

The softcover book is 108 pages, printed in black and white with Italian text written by Marina Mureddu, a Sardinian woman from Cagliari which is in the southern part of Sardinia.

Signora Mureddu learned Bosa Filet Lace from the granddaughter of a famous woman from Bosa, named Olimpia Melis who achieved international fame with her Bosa Filet Lace at the beginning of the 20th century. Olimpia Melis exported works all over Europe and to New York, things like: borders, curtains, tablecloths and other household items made by several hundred Bosa Filet Lacemakers.

Over a period of several years, Marina Mureddu was able to study some of these original works and make patterns. The book contains some history, instructions, patterns and photographs.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Franco Jacassi and his buttons


If you visit the Needleprint blog to read today's post, you will find it is about Franco Jacassi, who has over 10 million buttons in his vintage clothing showroom in Milan and about 70,000 buttons in his own private collection. Make sure to watch the video at the end of the post!

If you do a Google search of his name, Franco Jacassi turns up in many articles and on many blogs in several different languages. Over 30 years of collecting and exhibiting have made him indispensible to all the high fashion houses around the world, to vintage collectors and especially to those who love buttons!

The showroom houses many other vintage items besides buttons. Clothing, laces, ribbons, zippers, hats, handbags, old fashion magazines - something for everyone!

The latest craze for all things vintage has inspired Franco Jacassi to develop a line of accessories.

There is an excellent interview (in English) with Franco Jacassi here.

Image copyright: Tommaso Fiscaletti.

The Franco Jacassi three floor showroom can be visited at:
No. 3 Via Giuseppe Sacchi in Milan.
It is open from 10 am to 1 pm and then from 2 pm to 7pm, Monday to Friday. Closed the month of August.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Marine Byssus and Chiara Vigo - ebook!



On the 16th of June at the Biografilm Festival in Bologna, Chiara Vigo herself will be on hand at the presentation of Susanna Lavazza's ebook written about Signora Vigo and what she does with the Byssus or Sea Silk fibres that she collects from the Pinna Nobilis in Sardinia.

Happily there is also an English language version which will soon be available from amazon.com for the Kindle but which can be downloaded in Adobe Digital Editions format now from Feltrinelli

The Italian version can be downloaded from a list provided on Chiara Vigo's blog here.

On YouTube you can watch the 40 minute presentation of the book (in Italian and Sardinian). At about the 31 minute mark, there is a Swiss film (dubbed in Italian) which has some great photography of the Pinna Noblis in it's natural habitat.

For more information (in Italian) go to Chiara Vigo's blog. 



Thanks to Rossella for the heads up!!

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Off Topic - EAC Seminar 2012

This is just a quick note because I cannot find the time to contact everyone. I will not be able to attend the EAC National Seminar in Victoria this year. I cannot get the time off work. I'm very sorry not to be able to meet the people I wanted to and to see old friends again. Hopefully life will provide us with another opportunity in the near future.

Excuse the off-topic post, but this was the quickest way to do this!


Monday, April 30, 2012

Estense Embroidery on the cover of Inspirations


For those who have been asking about something new in Estense Embroidery from Ferrara, check out the latest issue (#74) of Inspirations magazine from Australia.

Inspirations Issue No. 74. Image copyright Country Bumpkin Publications

A delicious Estense Embroidery biscornu is on the cover!!!

Elisabetta Holzer Spinelli has done it again! An exquisite and colourful example of Italian needlework, the stitching on this piece is superb. Oh how I aspire to stitch like that!

I helped Elisabetta get this ready for Inspirations, translating instructions, info and correspondence, ecc., and all the while I was wondering if they would truly appreciate Elisabetta's singular talent and style. Wow! I'd say they did, not many can say that their work is on the cover of "The World's Most Beautiful Embroidery Magazine". Complimenti Elisabetta!

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Clean Edges on Drawn-Thread Work

Just a quick note to say that if you've ever wondered how Italian Drawn-Thread Work has such nice clean edges in their cutwork areas, get on over to Silvana Fontanelli's blog for an excellent tutorial with great step-by-step photos.

This type of turned-over instead of cut edge treatment is fundamental to techniques like Punto Antico, Reticello and other Italian Drawn-Thread Work techniques!

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Experiments on Buratto


A friend from Florence sent me a small piece of cotton Buratto woven by the Fondazione Lisio to test out.

This is not the modern version of Buratto that looks somewhat like burlap, this is recently hand woven fabric made in the ancient technique and on an ancient hand loom in an effort to produce a reproduction of the ancient Buratto, historically used in Italy. I told you a little about it previously in this post.

This is what the weave looks like on the Buratto from the Fondazione Lisio:


I mounted it on my slate frame which, happily was the perfect size, this piece of Buratto was 23 cm wide:


I think I may have mounted it incorrectly but it was good and taut and that's all I cared about. Then I went about experimenting.

The first motif I chose from Alessandro Paganino's 16th century pattern book called: Il Burato. I did it in a horizontal darning stitch with Coton a Broder no. 12 Ecru. Too bad I have since discovered that the no. 12 Coton a Broder in my stash is no longer available to purchase. I liked the coverage I got with the thread used.


After that I thought about Catherine de'Medici Embroidery and so I got out some Cotone Povero yarn and did a little dividing line under the Paganino motif.

Then I thought about other kinds of embroideries that were traditionally done on Buratto. Both Sicilian and Sardinian netted work came to mind so I decided to do a motif in the Linen Stitch using some Sardinian linen thread that a friend had given me. I chose a motif from GiovanAndrea Vavassore's 16th century pattern book called: Opera Nuova Universale intitolata Corona di Ricami.


Oh how I struggled with the linen thread but I think I would have even if the Buratto had been made of silk. And speaking of silk, I wanted to do my last motif in silk yarn that I have which is similar in thickness to the Cotone Povero but made of silk and viscose of Bamboo. I tried several motifs but was unhappy with the results, the silk yarn was too thick for more than one pass in Darning Stitch and looked strange for parts of the motifs where there was only one square of design.

I thought about it for a dangerously long time until it was in danger of become a UFO (unfinished object). I really wanted to use the silk/bamboo thread.

Well, I told myself, just do something in Catherine de'Medici stitch and be done! I hunted around in the Punto Madama Caterina book of patterns from the Accademia Punto Assisi and found a small motif.


The silk/bamboo thread was a dream after the linen thread but untwisted quickly and left a lot of fluff everywhere. I love the twisted-rope effect of the Catherine de'Medici stitch!

All in all, I would say that this ancient-style Buratto by the Fondazione Lisio has been given a fair test by me. It held up well to the many times I ripped out threads of all types. Now to unmount it and see what happens when I wash it!

I put my Buratto with some towels on the hand-wash cycle in the washing machine, then blocked it on a big fluffy towel face-down and ironed it dry. My blocking could have been better but here it is:


The cotton woven threads of the Buratto plumped up and so, of course, the holes got smaller. It shrunk about 2 cm from selvedge to selvedge (left and right sides in the photo) and I washed it in cold water. The Buratto is really soft after washing! My darning-stitched motif at the top is more filled-in, the silk/bamboo lost a lot of it's definition and thus I think I prefer the unwashed silk/bamboo thread better as you can see the effect of the Catherine de'Medici stitch.

I'm really impressed with the linen stitch! For all the zillions of times I ripped out and started over, the unwashed motif was uneven and you could really see the uneven thickness of the linen thread. After washing though, it looks good!

Unwashed

Washed

Traditional applications were things like flounces for curtains, pillows, tablecloths, inserts, ecc. I think you could also use it on clothing as it is so soft after washing. This should interest the folks who do period re-enactments.

The Fondazione Lisio has plans to try other materials like silk in future Buratto experiments. I am very glad that they have succeeded in helping to continue the ancient tradition of Buratto hand woven fabric. Watch their website for more news.

This was lots of fun! A few embroiderers were asked to participate in these experiments so I'm very interested to see everyone's results! There should be some posted soon on the TuttoRicamo blog.

A heartfelt thank you to the Fondazione Lisio for allowing me this opportunity and to my Florentine friend for thinking of me when searching out people to experiment on Buratto!