Gigliuccio hemstitching done on the back side

A reader very kindly reminded me that I had never posted the second part of this post on finishing a hem with Gigliuccio hemstitching (Peahole hemstitch) executed on the back side of the fabric.

So, without further ado, here is how to do it. You need to execute this on the back side of the work because the four-sided stitching will match that of the series of stitches you have done to secure the hem. This step today will be knotting the bundles together to create the characteristic look of this lovely hemstitch.

Assuming that we are carrying on after having secured the hem as we did here, turn the work so that the already executed hem is at the top and work from left to right on the back side of the work.

Step one will form the first four-sided stitch:

Step two will form half of the second four-sided stitch:

Step three will knot the two bundles:

Step four will complete the second four-sided stitch and return you to step one:

Repeat the series. Here is what it looks like on the back side:

This is the front side:

If you do this in tone-on-tone you will not see the criss-cross of threads.

There is a great in-depth booklet on this and many other little tips and tricks for executing the Gigliuccio Hemstitch in a variety of ways which can be had by contacting the author, Liliana Babbi Cappelletti. Be sure to ask for the English version if that's what you need.

To see how to do the Gigliuccio hemstitch on the right side of the work, check out this post here.

Gigliuccio Hemstitch - Attaching the hem

Lots of readers have asked if there is another way to attach a hem while doing the Gigliuccio or Peahole Hemstitch at the same time as executing the hemstitching instead of in a separate operation. The answer is yes! However, the rules of how to execute the Gigliuccio change and instead of executing the work on the frontside of your fabric, you will have to do everything on the back side.

I finally got around to reading up on my camera's settings and was able to do a relatively nice set of super-macro photos for this, though it took many tries and hundreds of photos! I got a great table-top tripod for Christmas from my photographer-daughter and with a ball-head attachment it is perfect for what I need it to do! (If you're wondering: the camera is a Canon S5 15 and the tripod is a Joby Gorillapod.)

So, withdraw your threads for the Gigliuccio hemstitch, turn up your hem and baste it down (to the backside of the fabric). I tied a knot in my thread and then went into my hem area about 2 inches away from where I wanted to start stitching. Come up at the top of the hem fold right where you want to begin. Just to be clear, you are coming up from inside the hem fabric, you are not catching any of the front fabric at all.

Step One: Moving left to right, slide the needle back toward the left under four ground threads:

Step Two: Insert the needle into the hem fabric without catching any of the front fabric to the right four threads, only catch about two ground threads of the hem fabric:

Step Three: Slide the needle behind the same four ground threads as in Step One:

Step Four: Moving diagonally to the right, go up and over four ground threads and slide the needle behind the four ground threads directly above:

Step Five: Insert the needle four ground threads to the right and down, coming out right where your previous stitching is:

Now we begin the whole procedure again, to the right four ground threads and slide the needle back toward the left under four ground threads and carry on from Step Two above:

This is what it should look like on the backside:

This is what it should look like on the frontside:

This is the first step of the Gigliuccio hemstitch which is, in this case, the Four-Sided Stitch and the Simple Hemstitch combined. You will have to do the second part of the Gigliuccio (the other row of Four-Sided Stitch and the bundle knotting) on the back side as well in order to have your stitching match. Click here for the second part of this tutorial.

An excellent publication on the finer points of the Gigliuccio Hemstitch is Liliana Babbi Cappelletti's booklet which is available in Italian from Tombolo Disegni. There was an English version done (called Peahole Hemstitch), you may want to contact the author to see if you can get a copy from her. The step-by-step images are fantastic and even if you can't get your hands on the English version, you should have very little trouble with the Italian version.

Gigliuccio Hemstitch - How to

As mentioned previously, the Gigliuccio or Peahole Hemstitch has many different methods of execution. I have tried a few and all have their merits but since so many of you have asked how to do it, I will show you the way I currently like the best. I prepared a brief tutorial last year for an online friend, so I will be using that and elaborating a bit.

You need to prepare your channels of withdrawn thread areas for the first part of the Gigliuccio which is executed in Punto Quadro or Four-Sided Stitch. Again, there are many ways to execute Punto Quadro but I'm going to show you how I have learned it.

For this example we will withdraw one ground thread and skip four, withdraw 8 ground threads, skip four and withdraw one ground thread. The middle part (the 8 threads) can vary depending on the look you want to achieve and the type of fabric you are using. You shouldn't make too wide of a withdrawn area, as your Gigliuccio can be difficult to control.

On the front of the work, let's execute the Punto Quadro. I turn the work so that the part that would be the turned-up hem is on the left-hand side (click on the photo for a closer look):

Here is what the front and back look like when we have completed this row:

Now we return to do the second part which is a combination of Punto Quadro and the Gigliuccio.

We'll do one Punto Quadro as before and half of a second one. Then we're going to wrap around the second bundle of threads once:

Bring the needle around to encircle the two bundles to form a loop with the thread, be careful to go behind the bundles and bring the needle through the loop:

Notice that the needle goes behind the bundles but in front of the thread of the loop - this is important!

Pull the thread to the left and position the knot with your thumbnail a little to the left of the half-way point of the open area. Tighten the knot, but you don't need to pull really hard, just enough to close it:

Now go back and wrap the second bundle taking care not to not to pass through the loop you are making but under it - we're not creating another knot, just a wrap. When this is done, your knot should have moved slightly to the right and into the half-way position of the open area.

We must wrap the second bundle one more time to complete the third leg of the Punto Quadro. Again, be careful not to pass the needle through the loop you are forming. You can nudge the stitch down to the right-hand edge of the open area to make it level with the third leg of the previously done Punto Quadro.

The last leg of the Punto Quadro is the first leg of the next one, so we start again immediately with the next set:

This is what the front and back look like when we're done:

This is what it looks like in tone on tone:

This a double row of Gigliuccio with a hem (which is secured with a separate row of Simple Hemstitching).

To use it to secure a hem, it is executed on the back side of the work, check out this tutorial for the first part and this tutorial for the second part.

Il Gigliuccio - Peahole Hemstitch

As can happen with many different stitches and embroidery techniques, there are different ways to execute a stitch. This can depend on the country where it is being done, or in the case of Italy: the region or even the town. Some associate the Gigliuccio's origins with Tuscany where it is the traditional edging of Punto Antico which some also associate with Tuscany, but in truth it is done all over Italy.

Some call the Gigliuccio the Fleur des lys stitch and associate it with Florence and the lily. Some associate it with the Gigliucci family of Fermo, Italy where it is said there is evidence of the stitch as far back as the end of the 1600s. We might be safe to say it is definitely an Italian stitch from the region that became Italy in the late 1800s – because technically Italy was not officially "Italy" before the Unification. I say 'might' because when I did finally find something that looked like the Gigliuccio I'd seen in RAKAM, it was in a Schwalm book by Renate Fernau and it was called the Peahole Hemstitch.

If you don't care too much about where it came from, then we can move on to what it is, because here, more or less most people are in agreement. More or less. ;-)

Basically it is a Drawn-Thread technique consisting of groups of knotted bundles in an open channel between two rows of Four-Sided Stitch, also known as Italian Hemstitch. There is a tutorial for executing it on the right side of the fabric here, and a two-part tutorial for using it to secure a hem, executing it on the back side of the work starting here and ending here.

There are many different ways to execute the Gigliuccio hemstitch, you will need to try a couple different ones (I'm sure there are other methods that I haven't yet discovered) to see which one you like best, regardless of the technique used to make it, the result is a beautiful openwork channel which plays with the effects of chiaroscuro and is very pleasing to the eye.

It can be done in tone-on-tone, in light-coloured thread on dark fabric or dark-coloured thread on light fabric: each gives a different effect. Done in multiple rows at a hemline, or in a single row to connect the motifs of a tablecloth, or however else you can imagine it, it is always attractive. Do a Google image search for some inspirational photos!

Hemstitching

I'll admit that I'm very much attracted to different types of hemstitching. Usually instead of flipping over embroidery to look at the back like other stitchers do, I feel around for the edge to see how it has been treated. Italian needlework feeds my craving for hemstitching in all kinds of fascinating ways. There is so much creativity and imagination!

This one I had to try, its name is so fun! It's kind of like Nun's Stitch but different. It's called Dente di Gatto or literally, Cat's Tooth (front and then back):

This one is made of tiny thrown stitches and knots... I wish I could say I did these but mine will never look like this in a million years! These stitches are part of a needle lace technique called Puncetto:

I love this one with three Buttonhole stitches in each hole, again done on high count linen. It is the edging of a lavender sachet that was given to me:

This is one of the first ones I tried... I'm not sure what its called:

Here is my sad attempt at a rolled hem - look how wavy it is! I really liked the arrowheads though:

Gigliuccio is my all-time favourite! This one was done on extremely fine linen (and not by me!):

Oh, I could go on and on! And I probably will in another post. For now I'll leave you with some books to check out. Punti a Giorno (Decorative Hemstitch) Vol. 4 by Giuliana Buonpadre. My copy is in Italian but I understand that you can get copies also in either French or English. All of her books are very clear with diagrams and photos of each stitch.

I Miei Sfilati (My Drawn Thread Works) by Antonietta Monzo Menossi. More complex combinations but really beautiful work, text in Italian and English. You can get this one at Tombolo Disegni (click on: Libri/Books, Libri-Ricamo, Ricamo Italiani - scroll to the bottom of the page).

For the Gigliuccio (known in English as the Peahole Hemstitch) or for the Cat's Tooth (together with lots of other great hemstitches in a booklet called: Hems and...) send an email to Italian-Needlecrafts who is the overseas reseller for these fantastic books.