I received an intriguing email some weeks ago from
Enza Termine of
Sicily. You may remember her from a previous post on
circular netting.
Enza had come across a
web page by an SCA member who was investigating
Mezza Mandolina, a more complex type of netting or
Lacis evidenced in a portrait by
Bronzino of
Eleonora, wife of
Cosimo I de' Medici and another portrait of
Elizabeth I of England. Both portraits date to the mid-to-late sixteenth century.
This is a detail of the
Bronzino portrait taken from
Elisa Ricci's
Old Italian Lace, 1913, the netting has been further embellished with embroidery:
Enza had also found
this page with Mezza Mandolina tutorials by the same SCA member for different patterns that she had been able to figure out by experimentation.
Enza was curious about the name of the technique
Mezza Mandolina. We found it mentioned by
Elisa Ricci in her
Old Italian Lace, 1913
(Antiche Trine Italiane. Trine ad ago - 1908):
"There is a variety of mesh-work very seldom found existing now, although several designs for its manufacture are to be seen in an old pattern-book, Isabella Parasole's Studio delle virtuose Donne published in 1597; the work was known as mezza mandolina, and is a net of irregular mesh, sometimes left plain, but more often embroidered with little leaves in matting-stitch which fill the square mesh and join it to the others so that the background can hardly be seen between the interwoven figures."In the
Ricci text is the above portrait of
Eleonora which is preceded by a photo of a pattern page for
Mezza Mandolina from a different text by
Isabetta C. Parasole called
Gemma Pretiosa, 1615. There is then a photo of some plain (not embroidered) extant
Mezza Mandolina kept in the
Bargagli collection in
Florence. (You can download
Old Italian Lace from
here)
In my researching I found that all texts cite
Parasole in one text or another of hers. Unfortunately extant
Parasole texts are extremely rare and while out of copyright, are part of private and museum collections and are not yet in the public domain. The German version of a 1616 text can be found
here but there are no patterns for
Mezza Mandolina. One librarian at the
Smithsonian Museum told me that they plan to scan their rare texts and put them online in the future, this is exciting as they have
four Parasole texts in their collections.
The tiny text
Origine ed uso delle Trine a Refe has a rather complex pattern for embroidering
Mezza Mandolina from
Parasole's
Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne, reprinted by
Luchino Gargano in
Venice, 1600 - you can see it
here. I'm not sure how you would manage something so complex on netting but then, I don't have any experience in doing it!
Enza decided to see if she could reproduce the
Mezza Mandolina pattern from the
Bronzino portrait. She had some good results which she shared with me but asked me to wait until she could perfect her technique and she has just sent me this photo of her results:
She has written of her adventures
on her website (click on
Mezza Mandolina - text in Italian) and she also found
this extant example of
Mezza Mandolina from the late 19th century in the
National Museum of Abruzzo.
Does anyone know anything else about
Mezza Mandolina? Please leave a comment below.
Thanks to Enza for sharing her photo and adventures with us!