Macramè from Chiavari

Last April when I was in Bologna, I got to attend a trade fair called Mondo Creativo [Creative World]. There was some embroidery and lace, lots of quilting and beading, decoupage, ceramics, jewellery making, felting, knitting, crochet, cake decorating and all kinds of do-it-yourself crafts that you'd expect at a fair of this kind. You can watch some video coverage of it here.

It was quite crowded and I walked around and around, going up and down the aisles trying to take it all in. I was there for a few hours and it was getting close to the end of the day when I reached the farthest corner of the vast space and discovered a booth full of the most wondrous Macramè.

I've told you in previous posts about the Macramè of Italy and how it's not anything like what North Americans usually think of. What I saw in this booth would take your breath away.

The lady demonstrating was Luciana Brescia and I got to talk to her for a bit. She told me about the type of Macramè she was doing which is a style local to the area where she lives, it is called Chiavari.

Chiavari is a small town a bit to the south of Genoa on the north-western coast of Italy. It is said that Macramè has been produced in the area for more than 700 years. It is traditionally used to ornament household and ecclesiastical linens and Luciana showed me the linen she uses that is locally woven especially for embellishment in macramè.

I couldn't resist getting a guest towel made of the special linen, worked in Chiavari Macramè by Luciana in a typical pattern called Fieschi.

The linen is called: grana di riso [grain of rice] and is handwoven by the deMartini family in nearby Lorsica.

Luciana has been perfecting this art for nearly 40 years. She is very proud to have made a towel that was presented to Pope John Paul II in 1998 when he visited the historic deMartini weaving studio in Lorsica.

Luciana teaches courses in her hometown and exhibits at the various trade shows around Italy. While she likes to make traditional items, she also makes more modern applications such as earrings, brooches, bookmarks and decorations. Her table of goods kept me enthralled for quite awhile and it was very difficult to make a choice for my purchase.

I also picked up a kit with instructions to make a flower assembled of individual petals and Luciana told me to go to a booth at the show where I would find some waxed cotton thread that would be good for me to practise with. I'll let you know how it goes!

Pizzo Margarete - Margaretenspitze

For those of you who were intrigued by the Pizzo Margarete or Margaretenspitze knotted lace that I told you about in this post here, Lotte Heinemann has reprinted her book and has some essential parts translated into English (the book text is in German) which are available in an insert along with some graph paper for you to chart your own creations.

As this technique is originally a German one, I thought that maybe those of you who may want to delve further into it would like to know of this book's reprinting. The book is 147 pages and coil bound which is nice for referencing while you are working. The English insert is 7 pages long and highlights the essential information you will need for working the lace.

There are clear, close-up photographs and hand-drawn illustrations:

If you have some experience with Macramé, this will be a valuable volume to add to your collection. For those of you who speak German, I would say this is the bible on this technique.

You can order it from this website, clicking on some of the links produces the option for English text, the book is pictured on the link Literatur und Links. You must request the English insert as it is not automatically included.

Lotte Heinemann tells me she and a friend are working on a beginner's book for this technique to be published in English and German. She will keep me posted and I will pass on any information that I receive.

Christmas Macrame

I finally treated myself to Adriana Lazzari's Christmas Macrame book, I've been looking at it since it come out in 2009.

Some years ago I tried to create a Santa Claus out of Macrame from a RAKAM magazine but he never really worked out and last year I wanted to create this bell, but even with help and infinite patience from the ladies over at Tuttoricamo, I didn't get very far.

This year, I've had some practise and am determined to create some kind of Christmas ornament in Macrame.

This nice little book has 55 pages, the text is only in Italian but there are lots of diagrams and photos, if you know your way around Macrame, you'd probably have no trouble if you don't speak Italian.

The first section deals with materials and the basic knots after which follows the patterns and ideas section which is the larger part of the contents. The projects include three angels, a chimney-sweep, a couple of brooms, two Christmas trees, a snowman, a witch, a poinsettia, the Nativity Scene from the front cover, three snowflakes and a bell. A bell very similar to the one I was trying to make last year. (If you're wondering, the broom, chimney-sweep and witch relate to the Italian tradition of the Befana coinciding with the Epifany on the 6th of January).

I like Adriana's books as she always tells you how much thread to cut. This helps math-challenged people like me as it leaves nothing to chance. I think I'll make one of the snowflakes to start out, they look like something I might be able to handle. I'll let you know if I succeed.

If you're outside of Italy, you can purchase this book from TomboloDisegni, click on "Libri", then "Libri Macrame": send an email to order, she takes PayPal. If you're in Italy, you can contact the author at her website.

Pizzo Margarete

The other day, surfing around as one does, I stumbled upon a spectacular Flickr folder full of amazing works of art done in Pizzo Margarete.

If you're looking for some eye candy, grab a cuppa and google "Pizzo Margarete" images!

Here is my first attempt from Adriana Lazzardi's wonderful book: Macramè Il Pizzo Margarete.

My technique needs a lot of work but it was fun to do and quick! I used some fine hemp yarn which gave me blisters on my hands so I will be looking for some cotton threads to use next time. The bookmark measures 12 inches long by 2 inches wide (at the widest motif). I made an error in not attaching the diamond shape together in the centre but at least I recognized it (as soon as I was finished of course!). I am not discouraged from trying again which is the important thing.

In the May/June 2012 issue of Piecework you will find a wonderful article and projects by Marji Suhm who learned this technique from two expert teachers in Germany where the technique (known in German as: Margaretenspitze [Margarete's lace]) was originally created by Margarete Naumann around the turn of the 20th century.

I always love to see how Italians add their own flair and style to techniques and the Flickr folder mentioned above shows you some fantastic Italian creations in Pizzo Margarete.

Pizzo Margarete - Macramé

Margarete Naumann was born in Chemnitz, which is near Dresden in Germany in 1881. She invented and then taught what is known as Margarete lace in the early years of the twentieth century.

You can learn more about Margarete Naumann and her lace at this website.

What I want to tell you about is the Italian interpretation of this exquisite form of Macramé because as I've told you previously, I love the Italian approach to this art which most North Americans turn their noses up at remembering plant holders and other items of the '70s made of rough jute and hemp.

I first noticed Adriana Lazzari's work in a book that I didn't buy at the time (and still regret) called Natale Macramé which had little figures for a Nativity scene made of Macramé. She caught my attention again with a book on little Macramé angels and then I was struck hard by the cover of her latest book and knew I could fight no longer, I had to have it!

The introduction translates:

"Margarete lace - what is it?
It is a particular lace that derives from traditional macramé, invented at the beginning of the 1900s by Margarete Naumann and patented as "Margaretenspitze". She wanted to break the bonds of the rigid knotting patterns of the time creating a particular way of making lace. This "new" technique allows one to develop the work in all directions, making both flat and three dimensional elements. You don't need designs or patterns because, with knowledge of the basic rules you can compose the lace according to your own creativity. Gathering the threads into bundles and gradually letting them out, using simple, double, triple, quadruple and multiple knots, adding and subtracting threads during the working you have the possibility of designing modules or elements for custom making a lace personalized to your own imagination.

......... A few years ago I discovered this particular lace, studying and elaborating it and now I want to pass it on to you through this book.

Here you will find the instructions for starting from the basics and arriving little by little to making more and more elaborate and complicated laces.

I hope with this, my work, to revive this old and forgotten but always wonderful technique."

The book is just under 85 pages long and the text is in Italian but there are lots of step-by-step photos and while I have not yet had a chance to try anything (I just got it!) I would venture to say that if you already have a good working knowledge of Macramé, you may have little trouble figuring it out. There are 15 projects of increasing difficulty the last of which is the design on the cover.

This book is available at Tombolo Disegni, look under the Libri/Books section and then under Libri/Macramé – send an email request to order.

San Vero Milis

I met so many talented stitchers on my last trip to Italy. I have to tell you about a fantastic lady from San Vero Milis in Sardinia. Her name is Rossella and she invited us to her lovely home and showed us lots of her needlework of which I can only show you a few pieces today as unfortunately most of my photos did not come out well.

Rossella is curious about all kinds of embroidery and needlework and she has tried many different techniques!

Punto Madama or Catherine de' Medici Embroidery

Fantastic Macramé fringe!

These last two Filet Lace pieces are designs by Maria Lai a famous Sardinian artist who uses textiles in her art. Rossella arranged for us to meet her but I'll tell you about that in another post.

After showing us her needlework and offering us coffee and delicious typical Sardinian pastries, we all piled into our cars and drove to Bosa, for a meeting with the ladies from the association La Foce which practices the ancient art of Bosa Filet Lace. Rossella had arranged for us to visit during one of their sessions where many ladies were working on fine pieces of Bosa Filet Lace.

I wish we could have spent more time in San Vero Milis, they have lots of artisan traditions and the scenery is breathtaking. I'll have to go back!

Macrame Fringes

I have been asked to tell you a bit about Italian Macramé Fringes for things like towels, placemats, tablecloths and other household furnishings. North Americans tend to think nostalgically to the 1970s and hemp macraméd plant holders and the like but in Italy, Macramé is still very much alive in the textile arts and in use frequently.

I showed you some summer Macramé purses that I saw in a shop window in Cesena and we talked about tassels and Macramé here and here.

What I saw most often in Italy however were Macramé Fringes of both the simpliest and the most elaborate combinations, all making the finishing touch on very attractive pieces.

In the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte Museum in Bologna there are several exquisite Macramé Fringe samples.

Here are a couple of my photos which turned out, there were many others but alas, my photographs are terrible! These Macramé Fringes are very small and delicate.

Here is an example of Macramé Fringe from the Poldi Pezzoli Museum in Milan:

An excellent book on Macramé Fringes with text in Italian and English is Macramé in Toscana by Cristina Notore:

It has many clear colour diagrams and lots of full colour photos of magnificent Macramé Fringes.

Macramé Fringes are worked on pillows, held either in the lap or on a tabletop, covered in striped or gingham fabric to be used to keep the knots lined up all the way across and evenly spaced. Large-headed pins keep the work securely fastened to the pillow. Materials used can be the warp threads of the actual furnishing you are making the Macramé Fringe for, Pearl Cotton, Cotone Povero or just about anything you like. A crochet hook helps with the pulling through of threads.

Here Liliana Babbi Cappelletti demonstrates on a Macramé pillow made of upholstery foam of her own design:

Special thanks to Stefania for the photo from the Poldi Pezzoli Museum!

Macramé Tassel Handle

All this talk of tassels made me remember that I had started a tutorial on a Macramé tassel handle back in September and didn't finish it. Anna Maria from the Accademia Punto Assisi showed me a neat way to do a handle for a tassel using an Alternating Half Hitch Knot when we were at the EGA Seminar in San Francisco.

This is the tassel with the Macrame handle Anna Maria made for my daughter out of varigated Egyptian cotton:


I had to try it out right away and used the pieces of yarn hanging from my suitcase handle to reproduce the knot so I wouldn't forget. Later at home I did a little tassel using single knots for the fluffy parts and did the Macramé handle. I was going to add more legs and then I got distracted by something else and it has sat on my side table for a couple of months now.


To incorporate the Macramé handle directly into your tassel, you start out in the usual way by threading your pieces on to a double length of yarn as described previously. This time though, I cut between each knot for pieces that only had one knot instead of two:


When I had a leg of the desired length I did a couple of knots to give it some space between the pieces and the handle:


... and pinned it to my Macramé pillow (you can use anything, even a clipboard):


Then I did a length of Alternating Half Hitch Knots. First starting on the left (click on the image for a closer look):


... and then on the right:


The hardest part was remembering to alternate!


Once the Macramé was long enough, I knotted it into a loop for the handle and continued on attaching my pieces on to the second leg.


Then I added a third leg by knotting it on just under the handle. I want to add at least two more legs to this tassel but you get the idea.

New Needlework Website - FiliForme

Some exciting news today about a new needlework website based in Italy. After much preparation and lots of patience while technical glitches were worked out, comes the labour of love of three Italian women: Filiforme. [in Italian: fili = threads and forme = shapes.]

I have taken some screen shots of the homepage to point out some things to you. The first thing that I noticed upon arrival at this website was how modern and "young person-savvy" it was. Almost too much for me! At the top are links to various social networks - some I know of through my daughter like Stumble Upon, Twitter and Facebook and others I had never heard of like Technorati, Delicious and Digg. This makes Filiforme something totally new - needlework aimed at young people. An exciting concept for those of us who have been wracking our brains trying to figure out how to interest this elusive age group in the art of needlework.

For now the Filiforme website is only in Italian, but with the aid of Google translate you should be able to navigate around fairly well - I tried it and some of the translations made me laugh out loud but I was able to find everything.

The first section announces upcoming classes and exhibitions with some in-depth information and a couple of photos of examples just below.


Then two embroidery (ricamo in Italian) projects: placemats and linen guest towels. Right away we get the "Italian" approach to needlework, I'm pretty sure that most people in North America don't have linen guest towels though they are still widely used in Italy. Clicking on either project takes you to a page with a list of materials and the basic instructions for completing the project. From here there are links to other pages with clear stitch diagrams and for downloading the patterns. (on the stitch diagram pages there are more links for social networks like Reddit and MySpace!)

Below the embroidery projects, the same format then for three crochet (uncinetto in Italian) projects: a scarf, a purse and a flower brooch. Here there are also links for downloading the clearest diagrams.


After that a recommendation for a delicious book on unusual macramé and how to purchase it.

Then a sewing (cucito in Italian) embroidery project for a silk bag. This is by Patrizia Recchia of Mano di donne - make time to check out her funky website with a decidedly "young" flavour.

More crochet flowers with a different application finish up the homepage at this time.


If you explore the pull-down menus at the top of the homepage you will discover under the tab: "Fili insegna" the page "Punti di Ricamo" which has 10 diagrams and instructions for embroidery stitches and if you click on the "Older" button, you find five more!

The tab: "Fili informa" has listings for more courses, exhibits and other news (look for Paola Cellini's prize-winning entry at the Valtopina show stitched on doubled organza!) as well as more book recommendations.

The tab: "Progetti" takes you to a listing of the needlework projects found on the Filiforme website (moving forward, I expect there will only be the latest projects on the homepage and you'll have to come here to explore past projects).

At the bottom of the homepage are two small links "chi siamo" and "contatti". "Chi siamo" means "who we are" and "contatti" is the contact page. You may be surprised to find that there are only three Italian women behind all this work. The only one I know of personally is Stefania Bressan who was my first contact in the world of Italian needlework nearly a decade ago. A needlework teacher in northern Italy, Stefania is also the author of a book on Schwalm Embroidery and collaborated on the recent release of the Drawn-Thread book I told you about here.

As I understand it, Laura is the photographer and her photography is exquisite and attractive lending a professional look to both the website and the projects.

I don't know anything about Francesca - I hope that biographies will eventually appear on the Filiforme website as I'm always fascinated in the people behind the work.

One important thing to mention: the women are looking for feedback and input, so send them your comments, suggestions, news and events.

I don't know how often this website will be updated but I signed up for the newsletter and I'll keep you posted!

Fili di Liguria - Threads of Liguria

This exhibition is going on right now until September 30, 2010 at the Abbey of San Fruttuoso a little to the south of Genoa on the north-western coast of Italy.

Liguria is well-known throughout history for it's textiles, macramé and bobbin lace and there is plenty of all that at this little show.

Two dresses from paintings of Genoese nobilewomen have also been recreated in exacting detail. The gown from this portrait by Rubens of the Marchesa Brigida Doria Spinola (1606) and the gown from this portrait by Van Dyck of Caterina Balbi Durazzo (1624).

On YouTube there is a six-minute video of a television report on the exhibition. It is particularly interesting as they show some great details of the gowns. There are also some beautiful fabrics and macramé fringes as well as laces and gold embroideries. Worth a look!

TALÈA Officina Tessile

Whenever I want to investigate something that someone tells me about, I leave their email in my inbox until I can get to it. Sometimes this takes a long time.

Last November, I received an email announcing the 6th Annual Hemp Fair in Gambettola, Italy which was sponsored by the hand-stamped fabric manufacterers Bertozzi and Pascucci. At this exhibition lessons in Savignano Braid Embroidery were offered and in the email was a photo of a cushion done in Savignano Braid Embroidery which was auctioned off with proceeds going to charity.

This is the cushion:


Now, I already knew about Savignano Braid Embroidery, but I was interested in the school that was teaching it as the instructors listed where women that I had met: Cristina Notore and Paola Paglierani of Italia Invita. These two delightful women are co-authors with another woman, Bianca Rosa Bellomo in a book on Savignano Braid Embroidery, and Cristina Notore wrote a beautiful instructional book on Macramé borders called: Macramé in Toscana which is already in it's second printing.

It has taken me 8 months to investigate, but better late than never! The school is called: TALÈA Officina Tessile and is currently holding courses in three different locations: Rimini, Riccione and Bellaria – all on the north-eastern coast of Italy. Cristina and Paola have participated in numerous exhibitions and have won many awards for their work.

If you visit the TALÈA Officina Tessile website, you can check out many photos and watch a video which shows a little of what you might expect to learn in their Macramé courses. Clicking here will show you some of the techniques of needlework that they teach and there are even kits available for the techniques of Macramé and Savignano Braid Embroidery. When I asked if these kits where available for overseas customers, Cristina told me that they are not set up for online sales at the moment but are looking into it. She promised to get back to me with details after summer holidays.

We will talk about Savignano Braid Embroidery next post...

Macramé Summer Bags

Summer has finally arrived where I live and it reminds me that I was going to make myself a Macramé Summer Bag. It looks like it will be a project for next summer!

Last year I took a Macramé course in Cesena, Italy with Liliana Babbi Cappelletti. A friend and I took the train from Rome on a hot day in May and headed for Cesena where we would spend the weekend enjoying ourselves with other friends at Lilli's home while she taught us the secrets of Macramé.

The first leg of the trip was great, aside from our train being a bit behind schedule, we were in a modern, air-conditioned train car with comfortable seats and a table between us. The trouble started when our train ran more behind schedule and we discovered that it would now be difficult to make our connection. We also discovered that there was to be massive computer system upgrade to the Bologna train station on the very day that my friend had to head back to Rome. Bologna is one of the main connector stations in Italy and most of the northern trains run through it. The computer upgrade meant that the Bologna station would be closed to traffic during the upgrade. With these worries, we arrived at our connecting station and ran to catch the next train, lugging behind us our baggage in the 40 degree Celsius heat. Sweating and out of breath, we pulled each other onto the train and squeezed in with our bags. The train was more than full of passengers and was an old, non air-conditioned model. Packed in tight like sardines in a can we stood sweating a few feet from the door - no chance of any kind of a seat on this train. We also realized at this point that my friend had left her cell phone on the kitchen table at home and we had no way to contact Lilli and her husband who were waiting to pick us up at the station in Cesena to tell them we were quite late. Then, at the last stop before ours we saw a ticket official working his way towards us. Oh no! In our haste to make the connection, we had not stamped our train tickets in the little yellow validation boxes at our connecting station!

It seems most other people had not stamped their tickets either so his approach was excruciatingly slow and he was becoming more and more abusive as he got closer to us. I dug into my pocket for the 10 euros we would need to pay the fine he was going to give us. He was not happy even with those who paid without a fight (and most people protested loudly). Thankfully the suffering was soon over and we stepped out onto the platform to look for Lilli. I was drowning in sweat and felt self-conscious getting into Lilli's husband's nice air-conditioned luxury car.

Things went much better after that and we went to the hotel and had an amazing seafood dinner during which we told our tale of the day's travel woes. Cesena is located about 15km from the Adriatic coast in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy and most definitely a great place for seafood! After dinner Lilli and her husband took us for a drive around town to see the main architectural delights and then we stopped to take a bit of a walk in the historic centre.

Since we had come for Macramé, Lilli took us to a shop window which had wonderful Macramé purses. These were not the casual Macramé summer bags that I was used to at home. These ones were full of Italian style and far more attractive. It's a good thing the store was closed or I would have been tempted to get one!


Somewhere in my mind I thought I might make myself one someday... after taking Lilli's course, I was able to identify the different knots. The principal knots on all of these purses were the Nodo Giuseppina (Josephine Knot) and the Nodo Piatto Alternato (Alternating Square Knot). I still want to try making one... one day!

For our class we made the tassel I showed you in a previous post. I'm sure Lilli could make one of these purses easily, she is very good at Macramé – here are two pictures of Macramé borders on pieces she made/was making for her home:



Here Lilli demonstrates, making it look easy:


In the end, it was a fabulous weekend, though my friend from Rome had to leave early and spend all day trying to get home due to the Bologna train station closure.

There are some pictures of other Italian Macramé bags here, here and here.

Samplers

Italian needlework samplers are hard to come by. I'm not sure if this is because they were actually used as 'notebooks' in the sense that Italians embroidered samplers of stitches as the only record of the stitches that they were taught and therefore the samplers were handled more and didn't survive the years. This is only a guess. They are not as commonly found as they are in English-speaking countries and usually not framed on the wall like we do.

I found some samplers in my travels to Italy last year, a few were at the Palazzo Davanzati in Florence. A couple of them looked to be mostly cross stitch, one was a darning sampler, the one I looked at the longest was one with various surface stitches and gold thread in one quarter with needle lace and some Macramé around the edges, another quarter of it was all Drawn Thread work. A lot of it was empty space as if it weren't finished – I later recognized this sampler in Elisa Ricci's Old Italian Lace, 1913. (you can find it on page 108 of the pdf file). How I would dearly love to be able to study this sampler up close at length!


Sorry the photo is blurry, the lighting was very low in this room:


In Verona at the little Don Mazza Museum in Via D.N. Mazza no. 14, there was a delicately stitched sampler done in such tiny stitches on very fine linen. Those bottom letters are made out of eyelets!


... we couldn't quite figure out how the cross stitches ended up looking like squares on the back:


At this museum we also found a long strip of wool done as a knitting sampler (this is only a small part):


There is a book I'd like to investigate called: Imparaticci = Samplers: Exercises of embroidery of European and American little girls from the seventeenth century to the nineteenth century by Marina Carmignani, 1986 (text in Italian). It's quite expensive so it's just on my wish list for now. Do you have this book? Can you tell me about the Italian samplers in it?

Thank you Armida for your pics of the samplers at the Davanzati Museum, mine did not turn out at all!

Tassels and Macramé

I have always admired the Italian approach to Macramé. It recalls nothing like what North Americans tend to think of, which are the hemp plant hangers and decorative owls of the 1970s. No, Italians have a far more tasteful and timeless approach to Macramé which includes elaborate fringes for curtains and tablecloths, bags, cushions, Christmas Tree decorations, tablecentres and tassels! They also make figures out of Macramé, like Nativity scenes and angels and even animals, flowers and monograms!

I remember my mother attaching her work to corkboard or hanging it from a doorhandle and sitting on the floor... Italians have it all figured out, they have many different cushions for making your Macramé on and I have to say they are very comfortable to use, you won't go back to going without one!

Last year in Italy I took a class in how to make a Macramé tassel:


It was an intense 2-day course which lasted all day... I mean all day! Our tireless teacher Liliana Babbi Cappelletti held the classes in her home and served lunch and dinner. We practiced using different threads, from raw jute to pearl cotton, then we worked the tassel. I didn't get finished and had to complete it at home but it all worked out in the end. Lilli's instructional books are incredibly detailed and very easy to follow.

I'm hooked!